Escape mass tourism on Lastovo, a pristine Croatian island where untouched nature, hidden coves and medieval villages thrive. Guardian journalist Mary Novakovich reveals its serene pace, endangered bird sanctuaries and crystal-clear waters.
Marko Barišić: There are still pockets along the Croatian Adriatic untouched by mass tourism. Their residents live as they always have: heading out by boat at dawn to fish, tending vineyards and olive groves, hosting relatives and occasional tourists in summer, and enduring long, quiet winters.
A hidden gem revealed
One such place was uncovered by British journalists ahead of the opening of the Pelješki Bridge. They captured the relief of locals in Brijesta, on the Pelješki side of the bridge, which had been a logistical dead end for years.
To reach Metković, they previously had to cross the national border twice near Neum, making travel in that direction highly impractical. Even reaching Dubrovnik was arduous, requiring slow journeys along narrow roads over mountain passes to connect with the Adriatic Highway near Ston.
Their children, attending secondary school, had no choice but to board in Dubrovnik. There were simply no alternatives.
Transformation through connectivity
The bridge has revolutionised daily life. A bus now whisks children to school in Metković in just 20 minutes, and a fast road to Ston has been built. Isolation has given way to connectivity. Tourists have begun arriving, spurring new cafés, restaurants, and shops.
The area is now thriving, with mass tourism looming. Yet, a Guardian journalist recently discovered not just another coastal village—but an entire island. Lastovo, she writes, left her utterly spellbound.
A sanctuary of nature and serenity
Described as a haven of unspoiled nature where time seems to slow, Lastovo lies five hours by ferry from Split or three by catamaran from Dubrovnik. Surrounding it is an archipelago of 46 islets, reefs, and rocks—a stark contrast to Hvar’s crowded clubs and bustling summers.
The island is a sanctuary for endangered Mediterranean birds like shearwaters and Scopoli’s shearwaters. Seventy percent of Lastovo is forested, while its crystalline waters shelter fragile marine ecosystems. For the journalist, its remoteness has preserved it as a true refuge.
A refuge untouched by time
“Lastovo is one of Croatia’s most remote inhabited islands—the next stop is Italy. Life here moves at a gentler pace,” writes Mary Novakovich. “In Zaklopatica Bay, fishermen clean their catch, elderly women chat after lunch, and boys dart about in boats.”
She highlights 15th- and 15th-century stone houses with colourful shutters, framed by vineyards and olive groves, hidden coves, and seafood restaurants overlooking the sea. A nautical centre, nature park rangers, and 200km of hiking trails beckon explorers.
Timeless charm and tranquil escapes
“Here, you can spend entire afternoons lounging by transparent waters or relaxing on terraces cooled by pine shade,” she adds. For Novakovich, Lastovo is the Adriatic’s secret jewel—a place she’ll return to, time and again.
For more stunning images and information click Visit Lastovo‘s Facebook page.